Oil Drain Plug questions

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Nirbm01
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Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by Nirbm01 »

Hi All,

I tried to fit the Saf-Air in my last 50 hour oil change, but it seems that it is not going all the way while the torque reached 160in/lb - I switched back to my old squared oil drain plug - can anyone comment on the picture attached it seems that the oil plug is also not reaching all the way full in while the torque is set - just wanted to get some advice to make sure I did it right.


Thanks,
Nir
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Rich
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by Rich »

The threads are NPT (Pipe Thread). These are tapered. Make sure the Saf-Air model you have has such threads. I see they make some that are not.

If you got the correct one I wouldn't worry about whether the treads are "all the way in". It's the nature of pipe threads. If in doubt have a mechanic check it out.
2002 DA40-180: MT, PowerFlow, 530W/430W, KAP140, ext. baggage, 1090 ES out, 2646 MTOW, 40gal., Surefly, Flightstream 210, Orion 600 LED, XeVision, Aspen E5
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Gasser
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by Gasser »

I installed the saf-air quick drain in mine on my last oil change. Ill snap a pic for you next time I'm out there.

The threads are NPT.
Jeff

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Nirbm01
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by Nirbm01 »

Gasser,

Did the Saf-Air went all in - did some treads remained out?
Nir
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Rich
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by Rich »

Rich wrote:The threads are NPT (Pipe Thread). These are tapered. Make sure the Saf-Air model you have has such threads. I see they make some that are not.

If you got the correct one I wouldn't worry about whether the threads are "all the way in". It's the nature of pipe threads. If in doubt have a mechanic check it out.
2002 DA40-180: MT, PowerFlow, 530W/430W, KAP140, ext. baggage, 1090 ES out, 2646 MTOW, 40gal., Surefly, Flightstream 210, Orion 600 LED, XeVision, Aspen E5
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by Gasser »

Nirbm01 wrote:Gasser,

Did the Saf-Air went all in - did some treads remained out?
Nir
Ill look but as the above quote says, with NPT the tapered threads do the sealing. If your torqued correctly your good. Safety wire in and run to check for leaks. I did use the supplied anti seize compound sent with the valve. Not a drop after 15 hours. I'm almost sure there were some threads sticking out just as the stock plug did.

Ill still post a pic of mine when I get back out there. Should be tomorrow.

Jeff
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2006 SR22, A/C, TKS, AVIDYINE PFD/MFD, IFD 540/440, AXP322 remote ADS-B TRANSPONDER, AMX240 AUDIO PANEL, MLB100 ADS B in.
168 KTAS 9,000' msl @ 13.6 gph LOP. 1005 pound useful load.
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by BlackMammoth »

I installed Saf Air, was a piece of cake!

Looking at my Spruce receipt it indicates it was 07-00879 SAF-AIR OIL DRAIN VALVE

Which can be found on this page (labeled P5000):

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/e ... key=436770

Hey Lycoming... NPT threads on an engine :scratch: :shock: This was a first for me.
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by rwtucker »

Nir,

I've had my Saf Air in for more than 300 hours and not a drop of oil lost. As others pointed out, these threads will not "feel" the same as the steel plug. Part of that is because of the dissimilar metals. Just make sure that you use the compound (very important when threading aluminum to steel), the threads are started correctly, and torque to specs.

However, I would carefully check the Saf Air for leakage the first few times you drain. I installed the same type on my Dakota. It had a factory defect that caused it to leak a little if you didn't cycle it open and closed a few times. I've installed several of them and this was the only defect . . . but they do occur.

Enjoy! If you are one of those who drops the oil at 25 and changes filters at 50, you will appreciate the one-one-handed oil changes you get every other time. I'm a big believer in frequent oil changes but my IA friends tell me I'm wasting my money before 50 hours on a normally aspirated IO-360.
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by Gasser »

rwtucker wrote:Nir,

I've had my Saf Air in for more than 300 hours and not a drop of oil lost. As others pointed out, these threads will not "feel" the same as the steel plug. Part of that is because of the dissimilar metals. Just make sure that you use the compound (very important when threading aluminum to steel), the threads are started correctly, and torque to specs.

However, I would carefully check the Saf Air for leakage the first few times you drain. I installed the same type on my Dakota. It had a factory defect that caused it to leak a little if you didn't cycle it open and closed a few times. I've installed several of them and this was the only defect . . . but they do occur.

Enjoy! If you are one of those who drops the oil at 25 and changes filters at 50, you will appreciate the one-one-handed oil changes you get every other time. I'm a big believer in frequent oil changes but my IA friends tell me I'm wasting my money before 50 hours on a normally aspirated IO-360.
yes but cheap insurance IMO. I like looking at honey colored oil.
Jeff

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2005 DA40 SOLD
2006 SR22, A/C, TKS, AVIDYINE PFD/MFD, IFD 540/440, AXP322 remote ADS-B TRANSPONDER, AMX240 AUDIO PANEL, MLB100 ADS B in.
168 KTAS 9,000' msl @ 13.6 gph LOP. 1005 pound useful load.
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Re: Oil Drain Plug questions

Post by smoss »

rwtucker wrote:Nir,

Just make sure that you use the compound (very important when threading aluminum to steel), the threads are started correctly, and torque to specs.
My saf-air drain is leaking a bit after several years and I got the "repair kit" gasket set. It does not come with the saf-air anti-seize. Any recommendations for sealant/anti-seize? I think mine was originally installed with teflon tape. Also, what is the official torque, can't find it anywhere?
Steve
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