Hello fellow DA62 pilots,
I am about to take our 2018 DA62 in for annual and have noticed some things that I want to bounce off everyone here to see if they have had any of the same experiences. Here they are:
1. The control stick, when moved quickly (but no abruptly) from left to right roll in flight, has a small "notch" or "detent" feeling when passing center. The source of this seems to be located right where the control stick gimbal is mounted to the flight control actuators underneath the seats. The controls do not stick, it is a very faint indication but it is there. One can also feel it if, out on the ground, you move one of the ailerons up and down with your hand.
2. Last year, the emergency flip-open windows began to separate from the main side windows. Diamond's warranty fix was to use heat to "weld" them back on. Although our MX facility did the best job they could with that method, the emergency side window frame is now further distorted from the heat which causes a draft from the emergency window seam. Not egregious, but annoying.
3. Are your propeller coatings bubbling? We have some small (less than dime-size) bubbles appearing on the prop paint. Diamond does not repair these under warranty unless the actual wood structure of the prop is affected.
Anyone had anything similar to what I've experienced above? I'm just trying to get any other perspectives on these as the warranty is about to expire. Thanks in advance!
-Pete C
Seeking advice on control stick "notch" in center and other MX issues.
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- Steve
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Re: Seeking advice on control stick "notch" in center and other MX issues.
Pete:
With regard to your specific questions:
1) My ailerons had a slight grab or notch when I got the airplane. Turned out to be interference between the aileron control rod boot and the flap control rod boot at the fuselage sidewall. Not sure if the DA 62 control system is set up similarly, but if that is the problem, the fix was easy, by shifting the position/angle of the boot slightly and reinstalling the cable ties to hold it in that position.
2) The vent windows are not assembled to the canopy using heat (they use a solvent to chemically weld them on), so I cannot fathom why they thought that heat would work as a repair method. I would have them furnish new vent frames and affix them properly.
3) Not sure about this - maybe ask the prop manufacturer - MT?
Bottom line: if I spent a million and a half dollars on an airplane I would expect every item, large and small, that failed during the warranty period to be repaired or replaced to my satisfaction. On my airplane I had a few issues during the warranty period:
KAP140 autopilot failure X 2 - eventually got a new computer.
Exhaust system cracks - new exhaust
Airplane was delivered without door lock cylinders - Diamond service rep flew to Texas to install them in my hangar
Steve
With regard to your specific questions:
1) My ailerons had a slight grab or notch when I got the airplane. Turned out to be interference between the aileron control rod boot and the flap control rod boot at the fuselage sidewall. Not sure if the DA 62 control system is set up similarly, but if that is the problem, the fix was easy, by shifting the position/angle of the boot slightly and reinstalling the cable ties to hold it in that position.
2) The vent windows are not assembled to the canopy using heat (they use a solvent to chemically weld them on), so I cannot fathom why they thought that heat would work as a repair method. I would have them furnish new vent frames and affix them properly.
3) Not sure about this - maybe ask the prop manufacturer - MT?
Bottom line: if I spent a million and a half dollars on an airplane I would expect every item, large and small, that failed during the warranty period to be repaired or replaced to my satisfaction. On my airplane I had a few issues during the warranty period:
KAP140 autopilot failure X 2 - eventually got a new computer.
Exhaust system cracks - new exhaust
Airplane was delivered without door lock cylinders - Diamond service rep flew to Texas to install them in my hangar
Steve
- Rich
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Re: Seeking advice on control stick "notch" in center and other MX issues.
#2. I assume you mean what we've referred to as the vent windows. On my DA40, at least, they are glued on. One of my hinges separated from the canopy some time back. It was recommended to use Acrifix, an adhesive that cures by UV. I pulled the plane outside in the sun put the adhesive in place and simply held the two parts together with my hand, letting the sun shine on the joint, for about 5 minutes. Then left it in the sunlight for about 20 minutes. It's held ever since. The "weld" approach sounds bogus.
#3 Be sure to get it on record. If this turns into a path for rainwater ingress to the wood, the blade is toast. If it's only paint this is probably not a big deal functionally. But if there is delamination of the fiberglass from the wood or swelling of the wood itself then it is a serious problem.
#3 Be sure to get it on record. If this turns into a path for rainwater ingress to the wood, the blade is toast. If it's only paint this is probably not a big deal functionally. But if there is delamination of the fiberglass from the wood or swelling of the wood itself then it is a serious problem.
2002 DA40-180: MT, PowerFlow, 530W/430W, KAP140, ext. baggage, 1090 ES out, 2646 MTOW, 40gal., Surefly, Flightstream 210, Orion 600 LED, XeVision, Aspen E5
- bikexprt
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Re: Seeking advice on control stick "notch" in center and other MX issues.
Gentlemen, thank you for your fast and informative responses.
I worded that original description of the emergency side window fix the wrong way: Actually, the fix was to use heat to dissolve the adhesive holding the side window on, and then use adhesive (I assume Acrifix or similar) to re-glue. The heat used in the removal process is what caused the distortion. Again, not our A&P's fault. He did his best with the only authorized procedure he had.
I agree that these things should be repaired to the same level of reliability and performance that the aircraft had when it was new, especially considering the premium product that it is. Thanks again for your help. It is valuable information that I can use when we talk to the warranty reps.
-Pete C
I worded that original description of the emergency side window fix the wrong way: Actually, the fix was to use heat to dissolve the adhesive holding the side window on, and then use adhesive (I assume Acrifix or similar) to re-glue. The heat used in the removal process is what caused the distortion. Again, not our A&P's fault. He did his best with the only authorized procedure he had.
I agree that these things should be repaired to the same level of reliability and performance that the aircraft had when it was new, especially considering the premium product that it is. Thanks again for your help. It is valuable information that I can use when we talk to the warranty reps.
-Pete C
- Rich
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Re: Seeking advice on control stick "notch" in center and other MX issues.
That sounds like another problem I was trying to solve. Removal of the block that the latch fits into because it wasn't installed in the best location. In that case it was suggested to carefully cut it off - somehow I ended up never doing anything about it and still have the prospective replacement block sitting in a drawer. The problem has recently become moot upon replacing the window latches with bronze ones from our alternate source.bikexprt wrote: ↑Fri Sep 25, 2020 7:16 pm Gentlemen, thank you for your fast and informative responses.
I worded that original description of the emergency side window fix the wrong way: Actually, the fix was to use heat to dissolve the adhesive holding the side window on, and then use adhesive (I assume Acrifix or similar) to re-glue.
-Pete C
2002 DA40-180: MT, PowerFlow, 530W/430W, KAP140, ext. baggage, 1090 ES out, 2646 MTOW, 40gal., Surefly, Flightstream 210, Orion 600 LED, XeVision, Aspen E5