Oil Filter Removal Procedure/Device

[jd4727]

Anybody willing to share their favorite method and/or homemade device for removing the oil filter on the DA-40 without making a big mess on the back of the engine case or floor at oil change time. I'm bound and determined to start doing my own oil changes and save the $250 bucks, not to mention becoming more familiar with my machine. Has anyone run across a written standard procedure for a complete DA-40 oil/filter change for a neophyte? I saw several you tube videos on safety wiring the filter (not specific to the DA-40) and bought the pliers and a roll of wire. Thought I might have my A&P assist on the first time out...or am I overthinking this? I seem to manage much more complex procedures on cars and motorcycles regularly.

Thanks

[smoss]

whole previous topic on the subject:

no-drip-oil-filter-change-with-pics-t42 ... %20removal

[jd4727]

Perfect...thanks Steve...

JD

[Chromer]

I used a piece of 2" black plastic drain pipe (no conductive) cut the pipe in half and drilled two holes in the one end to attach and hold in place under the oil filter. I then cut two notches in the other end to hold a little pail to catch the oil as it was draining.

[rwtucker]

John,

I think you have the advice you need. Work through the previous discussion on this topic and you can't go wrong. A few points of emphasis that work for me:

- The L-bracket method is drip free if you set it up well.
- If you don't have a quick drain installed, get one.
- If you lube the filter gasket with Dow silicone, you can remove and replace it by hand from now on; no wrench required.

So far, I haven't sprung for the fancy oil drain funnel and barrel. I like the following method because I can change out my oil and filter without removing the lower cowling:
- Cut a few feet of clear poly tubing with an ID the same as the diameter of your quick drain fitting.
- Slide a snug fitting rubber grommet about 1/2 inch from end that you slide on the quick drain fitting. This increases the compression on the quick drain fitting, keeping it from sliding off when the hot oil expands the tubing.
- Double loop and twist some safety wire around the poly about six inches from the other end. Use the free safety wire to fasten the poly to the handle on your drain container. You don't want the poly tubing flopping out as it changes temperature during the drain process. Two-gallon vegetable oil containers that restaurants discard make great drain containers. I rotate two of them and give the oil to the FBO to burn in their shop heater.
- When you are finished, insert a piece of paper towel in the grommet side of the poly and hang the tubing in your hangar by the safety wire.

Finally, if you R&R your oil screen, be sure to replace or re-anneal the copper gasket. (Same goes for your plugs.)

[Steve]

Finally, if you R&R your oil screen, be sure to replace or re-anneal the copper gasket. (Same goes for your plugs.)

Actually, the oil screen gasket is a copper/asbestos 'crush' type gasket which cannot be reused, so you will need to have a supply of these if you are checking the oil sump screen.

The spark plug gaskets can be annealed, but they are so stinkin' cheap, I don't know why anyone would bother - just use a new one.

Steve

[rwtucker]

Didn't know that about the screen gasket. Could have sworn that mine was reusable. We anneal a few hundred plug gaskets at a time in the winter . . . so less time than ordering more. Plus color us green and sustainable.

[Pancho]

Here's the method I learned from a Diamond service center...simple and works great.

1) Drain the oil.

2) Use a #2 phillips head screwdriver (and small hammer) to punch a little hole in the top side of the filter. The phillips head folds the metal back so you don't have to worry about contaminating the oil with metal.

3) Place a rubber tipped blow nozzle on the hole and blow out the filter with compressed air, then remove.

Done properly, there won't be any drips. I still put a paper towel under the filter in case of a stray drop.